© Meghan Tompkins and Meghan Tompkins.Writer., 2019. Nezu ShrineNezu-jinja (jinja means shrine in Japanese) is hidden away in one of my favorite parts of Tokyo, a tri-neighborhood area known colloquially as YaNeSen. This name comes from the abbreviation of the three neighborhoods: Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi. This area is rich with temples, shrines, shopping streets (called ginza), alleyways with tiny bars and eateries (yokocho), and so much more that affords a look at Old Tokyo. Unlike much of Tokyo, these neighborhoods were largely left untouched by the bombing of World War II, which makes them incredibly unique. There are many great websites dedicated to singing the praises of this area. Some of my favorites are listed at the end of this post if you'd like to learn more. Considering the awesome experiences this area has to offer, it is remarkably unpopular with tourists. Locals still own these streets, which allowed for a peaceful, reflective visit. When my husband and I visited Nezu-jinja on a Saturday afternoon this March, there were a few foreign tourists along with Japanese visitors, but as you can probably tell by the photos we took, it was not crowded by any stretch of the imagination. I am told this changes in April during the shrine's annual Azalea festival when the hundreds of bushes seen in one of the photos above come alive with color. At this time, entrance to the shrine remains free as it is all year round, but to walk through the azalea garden costs ¥200 (around $2.00 USD, give or take). We are looking forward to visiting during the festival to experience the garden in full bloom and eat some delicious festival food. I'm sure it will be worth braving the crowds. It might be unfair to compare this experience to Fushimi Inari-jinja in Kyoto, but that's life. The similarities between the two begin and end with the tunnel of red torii gates donated by Japanese businesses and individuals who hope their donation will bring good fortune upon them. While the sheer number of torii gates at Fushimi Inari vastly surpasses that at Nezu, the overall experience as a visitor is wildly more sacred and enjoyable at Nezu. There is no rushing through the tunnel to keep the line of tourists and photographers moving; no accidentally sabotaging someone's photo only to have someone else do the same to you exactly four minutes later; no one shouting to lost members of their groups; and no one spitting (shudder) in the communal purification fountain near the shrine's entrance (yep, saw it happen at Fushimi Inari right after we had poured that water over our hands and onto the ground, like one is supposed to do). Fushimi Inari is a beautiful place that is simply overrun with crowds during most of the day. To visit any time after 9:00 AM is closer to visiting Disneyland than a sacred space of prayer and reflection. If you do find yourself in Kyoto, I highly recommend visiting Fushimi Inari either around sunrise or just before sunset, taking advantage of the fact that the shrine is open from dawn to dusk. If you visit at peak times (again, after 9:00 AM every day), do not expect a peaceful visit. At Nezu-jinja, this is not a problem. Everyone at this shrine, even the children, was quiet and respectful. The line to pray at the offering hall was short and sweet, the line to get the calligraphy custom to each shrine and temple (goshuin) that we and many other visitors collect in special notebooks purchased at these houses of worship (called goshuin-chou) was non-existent, and the trip through the torii tunnel was absolutely painless. We and everyone else who was interested in doing so, were able to take an abundance of photographs in and around these beautiful cultural artifacts without haste or the risk of being rude to other visitors. The feeling that permeated this shrine was a sacred one. It felt like a place of worship with the occasional, respectful tourist sharing the space rather than a theme park. I would highly recommend it to anyone visiting the YaNeSen area and encourage you to contribute to the peaceful vibes this place sends out. Leave no footprint, or spit in the fountain, as it were. My Recommended Sources for Visiting YaNeSen and Temples & Shrines in GeneralYaNeSen Sources
Exploring Old Tokyo Truly Tokyo Savvy Tokyo Visiting Temples & Shrines in General How to Visit a Temple or Shrine from Japan-Guide.com Fushimi Inari Information Culture Trip Inside Kyoto Goshuin Information Tokyo Weekender
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AuthorI use this blog to record my thoughts on my life in Kanagawa, Japan, continuing creative projects, and career as a professional writer. ArchivesCategories© Meghan Tompkins and Meghan Tompkins.Writer., 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Meghan Tompkins and Meghan Tompkins.Writer. with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
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